Comment Post Cancel. February 10, , PM. Nice job on the installation cbiesecker! I was hoping to convert it to digital someday, but wasn't sure how to do this with the motor pod being there.
Your example is just a perfect solution to my delema. Was removing the chip and the IR from the cover difficult? Anything to watch out for?
And what are these ferrite men you refer to? Are they the metal probes you inserted into the wire plugs? Sure glad you posted pictures with your post. February 11, , PM. Figuring out how to install decoders is one of the aspects of this hobby that I enjoy most.
To remove the chip from the plastic cover, I use a hobby knife to slice of the little bits of melted plastic from the mounting posts on the top side of the chip. I then use a plastic handle from a paint brush to carefully "pop" the chip free. Don't use anything metal as it can damage the chip. To remove the IR LED, I use a solder sucker to remove most of the solder, and then with the soldering iron to keep any solder that's left molten, I'm able to work the IR free.
I use the same technique for removing the white plastic socket from the chip. I pull the socket off and leave the pins in the chip, then I remove most of the solder with the solder sucker, and then the pins are worked out one at a time. With regards to the ferrite men, Scalextric DPR cars come with them already installed on the guide and motor leads. But cars from other manufacturers typically don't have them. I use a small binocular ferrite core and 0. I ordered my parts from Mouser.
The ferrite men help protect the decoder from unwanted signal noise generated by the motor and from the guide. For cars that have room in the base of the chassis to mount the decoder in the same orientation as if it were a DPR car, I use a slightly different method.
Instead of removing the chip completely from the plastic cover, I instead use a razor saw and cut along the inside face of the cover so that the little posts remain attached to the chip. Then I find a good location in the chassis, drill the 3mm hole for the LED, and since the proper sized stand-offs are still attached to the chip it just drops right in and is secured with a few drops of super glue. I'll try take some photos of one of those cars and post it up to the thread.
February 13, , PM. Here are some photos of an Avant Slot Peugeot There wasn't a whole lot of room to fit the chip and ferrite men. Connect all — black wires together…et voila…. Now the stock wires are a bit big and the Slot. O2 Chip and Hall Senor installation with a connector: swap between analoge and digital testing Some racers might want to test their cars on analogue tracks.
Make a second set of lead wires and you can now easilly swap between an analoge and digital running. Add some wheight to compensate for the chip and the hall sensor and your set up testing will remain consistent. Note: If you do this conversion it is wise to solder the ferrite man on to the chip connector. You need the little ferrite man for digital running but is been know to blow if left in place during analoge use. Also if you use these type of connectors, mark the correct mounting position.
You would not be the first to leave the startline…backwards. UK for such connectors. In digital racing this is not always true…here the competitor shares resposibility to make all laps count by installing the Hall sensor correctly.
Make sure its mounted with the beveled side facing downwards, mount it at least 20mm offset to the slot and keep the cables clear from your motor and light cables. Last but not least, check the height of your Hall sensor above the track. On a run of the mill Slot.
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