Wear safety glasses or goggles while operating power tools. Also face or dust mask if operation creates dust. All persons in the area where power tools are being operated should also wear safety glasses and face or dust mask. Never carry tool by cord or yank it to disconnect from receptacle. Keep cord from heat, oil, and sharp edges.
Have damaged or worn power cord and strain reliever replaced immediately. Use clamps or a vise to hold work. Keep proper footing and balance at all times. Keep tools sharp and clean for better and safer performance.
Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories. Inspect tool cords periodically and if damaged, have repaired by authorized service facility. Inspect extension cords periodically and replace if damaged. Have all worn, broken or lost parts replaced immediately.
Keep handles dry, clean and free from oil and grease. Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from the tool before turning it on. Do not carry a plugged-in tool with finger on switch. Be sure switch is off when plugging in. Keep hands, body and clothing clear of blades, bits, cutters, etc. Watch what you are doing. Use common sense. Do not operate tool when you are tired or while under the influence of medication, alcohol or drugs. Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended function.
Check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced by an authorized service center unless otherwise indicated elsewhere in this instruction manual.
Have defective switches replaced by authorized service center. Do not use tool if switch does not turn it on and off. Take extra care to prevent inhalation and skin contact when working with these materials. Request, and follow, any safety information available from your material supplier.
The dovetail joint is a traditional joint that is both strong and visually appealing. This joint has flared protrusions tails that are cut into one board drawer side and protrusions with slanted sides pins that are cut in the other board drawer front or back.
When the two pieces are joined, the tails and pins lock together mechanically, so that pulling on the drawer front will pull the drawer side as well without the need for fasteners screws, nails, etc. Since the pins and tails have a sufficient amount of surface, the joint is even made stronger by glue. Types of dovetails include through dovetails, half-blind dovetails, rabbeted half-blind dovetails, mitered-through dovetails, blind dovetails, and mitered dovetails. Of these joints, the through, half-blind, and rabbeted half-blind are the most common.
NOTE: This manual includes instruction for the basic dovetail jig operations. Please visit our Web Site at www. A similar joint, called a box or finger joint, has straight protrusions called fingers on both boards. This joint is used on jewelry boxes and other small boxes. The box joint is strong because it has a large surface area for glue. The Dovetail Dado, or Sliding Dovetail, consists of a dovetail-shaped dado in one board and a dovetail-shaped tenon in the other board.
This method is a strong way of connecting fixed shelves to walls. The Porter-Cable series dovetail jig will help you cut these joints efficiently. An accessory kit will enable you to cut miniature versions of these joints for small gift boxes or cubbyhole drawers on a roll-top desk. The series also has the capability to cut more advanced joints dovetails that skip pins, wood hinges, end-to-end joints, various types of angle joints, and joints with inlays.
The series dovetail jigs come equipped with an easy-to-mount, heavy-duty steel base A Fig. A1 featuring a clamping system designed to hold wood and minimize board slippage during cuts. Troubleshooting tips B are provided on each side of the base. Three different machined aluminum templates Fig. A2 can be used on the jig system to create all joints described in this manual.
The fingers on each template are used in combination with the template guides Fig. A3 to guide the router in the proper motion. Additionally, each template aids in setting proper board alignment and router bit depth.
Dovetail bits and straight bits Figs. Previous Page. Next Page. Porter-cable 12" mm dovetail jig instruction manual models: 44 pages. Tools Porter Cable ts Instruction Manual 17 pages. Page 4: Additional Specific Safety Rules Of these joints, the through, half-blind, and rabbeted half-blind are the most common.
NOTE: This manual includes instruction for the basic dovetail jig operations. Please visit our Web Site at www. Page 5: Dovetail And Box Joint Overview Tails A similar joint, called a box or finger joint, has straight protrusions called fingers on both boards. This joint is used on jewelry boxes and other small boxes. The box joint is strong because it has a large surface area for glue. An accessory kit will enable you to cut miniature versions of these joints for small gift boxes or cubbyhole drawers on a roll-top desk.
The series also has the capability to cut more advanced joints dovetails that skip pins, wood hinges, end-to-end joints, various types of angle joints, and joints with inlays. Adapters and sub-bases are available for most routers. Page 9: Operation Mount your workpiece in the jig properly.
If the workpiece is not secure, it can be damaged when it moves. The jigs utilize two mounting positions for workpieces - horizontal and vertical. Some joints require both, while others require the use of a scrap board in the horizontal position upper clamp and the workpiece in the vertical position lower clamp. You can add extra support by inserting a second board A Fig. E1 of the same thickness in the top clamp to ensure that the template is parallel to the base across its length.
Page Half-Pins Vs. Half-Tails Some templates have one line Fig. H1 while others have several lines to produce multiple types of joints Fig. Porter-Cable has scribed icons on the templates to indicate which lines go with which joints. You can maneuver a mounted template onto a large workpiece easier than clamping a large workpiece to the jig.
This process allows you to join boards wider than 12" by routing a part of the joint, sliding the mounted template just past the original cut, and routing the remainder of the joint. By using the clamping boards, you can rout boards that are too short to clamp in the jig base, allowing you to dovetail small decorative boxes. You can make half-blind joints in thicker wood than the jig can handle.
You can make steeply-angled joints with the clamping boards. You can make joints using a router table by inverting the mounted templates. You can use both the normal through-dovetail template included with the Jig and the Accessory Kit , and the miniature through-dovetail template included with the Accessory Kit with a clamping board.
NOTE: You can modify these clamping board methods to make box joints. Step 1 - Make a clamping board 2" x 3" x 19". Make sure that all four sides are square You may need to glue thinner sections of wood together and plane them to make the 2" board. Step 2 - Drill the pilot holes for 10 screws on the face of the board as indicated in the drawing Fig. Step 3 - Remove the brackets from the template Fig. Step 4 - Align the lines of the template with the edges of the clamping board.
You should be able to see the pilot holes in the elongated slot of the template Fig. Step 5 - Drive two 10 wood screws through the elongated slots of the template into the clamping board Fig. Clamp the tail board with the outside surface facing away from the clamping board Fig. Look under. This step is optional. Clamp stop blocks to the clamping board for rapid setups of repeated cuts.
Step 3 - Use a small square and a pencil to draw a line along the bottom of the clamping board Fig. Align the line with an edge of the tail board. This line will be used to set up the pin board.
Step 4 - Use the width of the pinboard to mark the depth of the router bit on the tailboard Fig. Step 6 - Connect your router to the power source and cut the tails Fig. Clamp the pin board with the outside surface facing away from the clamping board Fig. Use the width of the tail board to make a pencil mark on the pin board for the depth of the router bit. Set the router bit depth, using the pencil mark from STEP 3. Step 2 - Loosen the two 10 screws.
Step 3 - If the joint is too loose, move the template toward you slightly. Step 4 - If the joint is too tight, move the template away from you slightly. Step 6 - Cut the pin board again and check for fit. You can cut dovetails in boards wider than the templates mounted on clamping boards by cutting the first part of the joint, sliding the templet down the workpiece, and cutting the rest of the joint.
NOTE: Become familiar with the procedure for cutting through-dovetails with a template on a clamping board before attempting working with unlimited board width.
Remove the half-blind depth bracket. Other than that, the setup is identical to the previous setup. Step 1 - Clamp the tail board with the outside surface facing away from the clamping board Fig. Step 2 - If the board is a width in 1" increments, 12", 13", etc.
Step 3 - If the board is not in 1" increments, take the fraction of an inch that is greater than 1" and divide it by two. Then move the tailboard to the left of the center of the fingers by that amount Fig. Step 4 - Use a piece of wood the same thickness as the pin board to mark the router bit depth.
Step 6 - Connect your router to the power source and cut the pins as far as the template will allow. Step 7 - Unclamp the templet, slide it down, and center the last cut between the two straight fingers and reclamp Fig. Step 1 - Clamp the pin board with the outside surface facing away from the clamping board. Then move the pin board to the left of center of the fingers by that amount.
Unclamp the templet, slide it down, and center the last cut between the two angled fingers and reclamp Fig. This alternate method may be more accurate for correctly cutting the tail and pin boards. Clamp the tail and pin boards together with a 2" wide block Fig.
Step 2 - Use a square to align an edge of the tail and pin boards Fig. Step 3 - Cut the pins and the tails as far as the template will allow Fig. Step 4 - Slide the template, aligning the last cut in between the fingers of the template Fig. You can mount your half-blind template that comes with the and jigs and the accessory kit to a board.
This method, however, limits your workpiece width capacity to 8". NOTE: These instructions can be modified for making half-. Square all of the sides.
Make a mortise through the board and drill pilot holes for 10 wood screws Fig. NOTE: Threaded inserts and 10 flathead machine screws can be used in place of the 10 wood screws. Make the offset clamping block. Make a counterbore for the threaded T-nut Fig. You may need to use extra washers to prevent the bolt from sticking out. Step 3 - Insert the threaded nut into the offset clamping block Fig. Make the straight clamping block. Make two thickness blocks the same thickness as the pin board. Drill a hole big enough for the wood screw to go through Fig.
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